By John Springfield

In late March 2023 I decided to escape the cold weather and headed toward southern Texas.  I've always wanted to explore the Rio Grande by bicycle.  Now was the time.

I was looking forward to the warm weather and the TexMex food.

I started in Brownsville, intending to take a 50-mile loop out to Boca Chica Beach and back.  The road (Route 4) would also take me past the Space-X launch pad.

However, the pleasantly warm weather turned into a 99 degree scorcher. (

And the southerly winds (30 mph) produced a crosswind that nearly blew me off the road.

I got as far as the Space-X complex, when I was greeted with road construction.(The space center launch pad can be seen to the left of the large building.)

The heat was causing me to drink almost all my water, so I decided to reverse direction back to Brownsville.  Well the heat got unbearable, I drank all my water, and the wind noise was deafening.  My aim was to get back to a Border Patrol inspection station, hoping to get water.  I had to stop several times to recover from the heat.

Finally, I made it to the Border Patrol spot, got my water bottles filled, and sat in the only shade available all day.   Some start to my trip!

Realizing the heat would continue all week, I learned to arise before dawn and bike an hour in the dark (I have front and rear lights).  The traffic was extremely light at this pre-dawn time, and it allowed me to avoid the worst part of the afternoon heat.(The tombstone commemorates  those who perished in the last battle of the Civil War in 1865.)

I tried riding on some back roads (some dirt), but realized there were no services.

So my ride pretty much followed US-281 and US-83.  For the most part I had a wide breakdown lane all to myself.  But I also got chased by lots of unleashed dogs! (This is pretty much the road (US 281 West) and the scenery all day)

The highlight of the trip was getting off the highway and visiting the old settlement of Roma.(The poster shows famous missionaries.)

When I arrived on Sunday morning, the town seemed deserted.

There were various signs explaining the history of this old bi-cultural town.

And there was an overlook of the shallow Rio Grande, allowing me to see Mexico.

On the fourth day I entered Zapata.

Here is where I had lunch and supper at a terrific family-run restaurant. I ordered the steamed white fish with sides of veggies. My cardiologist would have been proud!

On the fifth day I arrived at the busy city of Laredo.

It was here I would make a decision. I was headed north, but the nearest motel was 75 miles. I would need a day off to recuperate from all the heat.

It's not TexMex food, but for my "second breakfast" I had cardiologist approved egg whites, turkey bacon, and fruit

But when I awoke to severe lightning and thunder in the morning, I realized it was time to go back to Boston.  My 74-year-old body just could not take more heat, let alone 75-mile days...

As it turns out, when I got home the temperature was a perfect 55 degrees!

You can see more trip details and more photos here https://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/OldMan